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St. Petersburg & The Baltics

St. Petersburg & The Baltics
via The Crystal Serenity 
and Lufthansa First Class
June 2011

 

Helsinki, Finland
July 4, 2011

Admittedly St. Petersburg is a tough act to follow and we're starting to approach our away-from-home limit, however if there is a more boring capital city on the face of the earth (other than Ottawa), I have yet to visit it.

Fried smelt? Not today, thank you.

 

Berlin, Germany
July 6, 2011

After a sea day, we arrived at Warnemunde, Germany just after dawn. Warnemunde is a lovely small seaside port, however, it is about 250 km from Berlin. We met our driver at the pier at 8:30a and, with a couple of pit stops, arrived in Berlin just before 11am. With only 5 hours before we have to head back, we did a whirlwind tour of a city that I would like to return to and spend more time.

One of the few remaining sections of the wall...

Brandenberg Gate...

After a couple hours of sightseeing, we headed for lunch at Lutter & Wegner, for their Schnitzel and award winning "Best in Germany" Sauerbraten.

After lunch, we finished our Berlin tour...

After a brief stop at the holocaust memorial, we headed back to Warnemunde...

Copenhagen, Denmark

July 7, 2011

Our final port of call was Copenhagen, which I hadn't visited in nearly 20 years. We did the canal tour and walked Stroget before heading over to Tivoli for a late lunch.

One of the best "adjusted" signs I've seen in a long time.

Next we headed over to Tivoli, the oldest amusement park in Europe...

And a delicious lunch at Nimb Terrasse...

Up next: Our 24 hour trek home staring with one of the worst excuses for an airline I've encountered in years.

 

Our 24 hour trek home.
CPH-FRA-ORD-SFO
SK to LH to CO
July 8, 2011

SK at CPH... quite possibly the most clueless airline ground employees I have ever encountered. With *A award seats at summer premium, terrible connecting options for our return forced me into a 75 minute SK to LH connection at FRA, and no FCT today. A mandatory 10:00a cruise dis-embarkment meant we arrived at CPH nearly 4 hours before our 1450 SK departure. Loads of check-in lice, but the good news is that the *A Gold/Business/First was wide open.

The bad news is that our agent was one of the most clueless agents I have dealt with in ages. Apparently LH First is not good enough for this line. "Are you Gold?" Um, yes. Also LH First. Thank you AC. Without my *G AC Elite card, we might still be in the lice queue, I give the SK agent our passports and tell her FRA-ORD-SFO. Yes, it certainly is going to be a long day. Everything seems fine until I notice our luggage tags say ORD. "Oh, good catch" she says. More tap-tapping. "This is strange, I can't seem to add your CO flight." A couple minutes later and she proudly proclaims success and produces baggage tags with CPH-FRA-ORD-SFO. "I had to uncheck you in for your LH so you will need to check in at FRA. It will be no problem. It happens all the time. Just go the transit center." On an F ticket, you must be joking.

I figure I've gone a far as I can with this moron, I'll just find the LH counter and get is sorted out. Oops, bad decision. Unfortunately there is no LH counter at CPH as SK handles LH. Back to the counter to talk to Miss Clueless who is currently on the phone processing four other Crystal pax (the umbrella is a dead giveaway and probably a minimum $100 post departure charge to your CC). While in line, the lone helpful CPH SK rep comes over to see if she can help. I explain that why am back at check in, adding that there is no way I am leaving without an LH BP since checking in at FRA won't work because we will miss the check-in cut-off. If my option is "bags to SFO or no LH check-in" or "bags to ORD and LH check-in", I want the ORD/LH option. This agent seems to have a clue and interrupts Ms. Clueless to find out what is going on. After a couple of minutes of animated chitchat and my twice reminding them that "I will miss the check-in cut off time even if we're on time", she motions me over to her podium and 60 seconds later I have my SK and LH BPs and my bags are still going to SFO. At this point, my CO BP for later tonight is irrelevant.

Priority SAS security was a breeze as we were the only two who turned left at the top of the escalator, The SAS lounge was immediately after priority security... it is spacious and two levels, but in need of an extreme makeover. LH First was again apparently not good enough for access to the Scandinavia Lounge so I had to show my *G card for access... but I'm not sure what the difference is between the two levels.

 

SK 675
CPH-FRA
MD-83
July 8, 2011
2:50p-4:20p (sked)
3:40p-5:08p (actual)
Seats 5AC

With the departure monitor still showing on time 1450 departure, we left the SAS lounge at 1410 and head thru the shopping mall that is CPH towards B-5. Good sign that the plane is there, or at least, a plane is there. Tick-tock-tick-tock. 10 minutes after our scheduled boarding time with not a single gate agent in sight, commotion in the gate area as the departure screen now shows a 1740 departure and a different flight number. No announcement, just an SK employee in the concourse, not the gate mind you, telling everyone that there is a gate change and the new gate is now B-19.

Off we go to B-19 to see an MD just pulling up and the jet bridge moving in. The monitor now shows a revised departure time of 1510. Yeah, right. Like that is even remotely possible. Sensing my now complete lack of faith in SK, Mrs. SFO is now getting concerned about making our connecting flight. I on other hand, am quietly rooting for a misconnect so that LH will be forced to put us on the 380 nonstop tomorrow morning (EF now showing 4/8). At 1455, a gate agent finally arrives. Ten minutes later, he informs us that the aircraft swap has left us 10 seats short and they now have to figure out who will be bumped. Another 5 minutes and he calls up the first pax to be bumped. Now we are still waiting for catering before we can begin boarding. At 1510, another agent arrives and decides that they are going to start boarding, but "there may be some issues with some of your seat assignments". Two pax board and #3 gets flagged... "sorry sir, you'll have to go on a later flight." #3 is none too happy but eventually moves away to be "taken care of later". We are in the first group of 20 or so to board and then catering arrives, stopping boarding. Five minutes of rolling carts in/out and schlepping up/down the aisle. The good news is that during the delay, all BP issues were apparently resolved and a steady procession of pax arrived so that we pushed back at 1540. Wheels up at 1550 and the captain announces a 5PM arrival.

Borderline inedible chicken snack...

We landed at 1703 and pulling into the tarmac position at 1708. No special treatment for F pax today but there was a special bus for LH432 as 15 pax were connecting to ORD. After the long trek to the A terminal, doc check and then passport control, we arrived at A-59 at 1733, just as final boarding was being announced.

Up next: LH432 and the new LH First Class.

LH 432
FRA-ORD
747-400
July 8, 2011
5:35p-7:30p
LH New First Class
Seats 83CH

We made it, and even though we were treated like cattle on the connection, I immediately cheered up on boarding when I noticed the flat screens TVs in Business. Finally, something went right today and we were lucky to get one of the three newly configured 744s with the new LH First. Wow!

OK, so it is still the upper deck but I really, really like the new configuration... eight all aisle seats with a bed by the window where the window seat used to be. What a much more spacious feeling to the cabin. Our Senior FA greeted us and shared our excitement as it was her first flight in the New First as well. I still prefer row 83 in the new configuration as it is the most private. Rows 81 and 82 invariably use the front lav, so there are no other pax walking by row 83.

According to our FA, LH rolled out a new menu starting in July, with Lufthansa's "celebrity chef" Roland Schmid.

The LH Wine List, not yet fabulous and still no Dom or Krug, but definitely more interesting and creative than a couple of weeks ago...

Champagne
Feature Wine
White Wine
Red Wine
Spirits
Spirits, Liqueurs and Ports

Dinner time...

Choices, choices... our last hurrah, I decided to go all in. 
To start, of course the caviar, with champagne.

Since our FA offered, I went with the entire appetizer stack, or at least tried a sampler, with more champagne...

1st up, the King Prawn Confit with Strawberry Salad and green Pepper... wow a rather strange combination of tastes.

Jellied veal with chervil, snow pea salad and lime vinaigrette. This one was actually pretty tasty...

Zucchini and bell pepper terrine with basil sour cream...

Next up, a very nice chilled vegetable sour with basil oil, paired with an excellent 2007 Mendoza Pasionada...

For dinner, it took all I could muster to not select the pigeon strudel. 
The medium rare saddle of lamb crusted with gorgonzola cheese and herbs, vegetable au gratin and potato blini was... medium rare and very good... paired with a lovely 2005 Redoma Tinto...

Excellent artisan cheese selection with a nice Neipoort Late Bottled VIntage Port.

For dessert, Schmid's Chocolate Dream: Pave, Sorbet and chocolate sauce was positively sensational.

Wow, how much more of this can I take? 

Delicious and decadent Peters chocolate...

With an amazing milk liqueur, Dresdner Weisses Wunder. Wow. 

About a half hour after my orgy of food, I decided to give my bed a try. The bed was so comfortable that I fell asleep almost immediately and slept like a baby for nearly 5 hours.  Woke up about 75 minutes out, and had no room for anything other than a little fruit.

On time arrival at ORD after my most comfortable flight since our February CX First Suites HKG-SFO flight.
IMO, LH has a winner with their new First Suites, and now has the hard product to match its soft product excellence.
I love the upstairs 744 configuration. The bed is a brilliant idea... not only wonderfully comfortable, but doubling as a great extra space for the suite when not sleeping. Bravo LH!

The final leg...

With the only international arrival at 7:30p, C&I was deserted and we breezed thru in just a few minutes. Amazingly, the carousel had already started as we walked up and our SFO-tagged bags were the first two off. A quick exit and we handed the bags off at UACO connecting luggage, then proceeded to the O'Hare train for transfer to T1. I would guess that from gate to train was no more than 12 minutes. Wow!

CO 1773
ORD-SFO
737-800
10:00p-12:30a (sked)
11:48p-2:00a (actual)
July 8, 2011

Unfortunately, it was pretty much downhill from there. It's been a few years since I'd been to ORD T1 check-in. I remembered it as a lot more open and attractive. Whoa, quel dump these days! One of the most unattractive check-in areas for a major hub. Priority security? Closed. Regular security? No priority lane. Color me spoiled by spending most of my ORD time in T3 and AA, whose facilities blow away what I saw in T1.

Next bad news was that our 10:00p departure is now showing 11:30p. Ugh! Tons of delayed flights tonight as weather somewhere really disrupted the system. We head for the B-7 RCC which is the closest to the CO gates. What a dump this one is... ugly, depressing, disgusting bathrooms. Oh yeah, it closes at 9:30p regardless of flight delays. How about a shower? Ya right, sorry they all close at 7:30p. Showers have closing hours? Seriously, the embarrassing excuse for a lounge makes the AA H/K AC look like a Lufthansa FCL.

Since we had 3 hours to burn, I decided to check out the other RCCs and the UA IFL. The B-19 RCC was just as bad, only a slight more modern dump.
The C-16 RCC is the nicest but not enough that Mrs. SFO would want to make the trek. Plus this one closes at 10:00p. I decided to check out the IFL, but it took directions from the RCC staff to find it... "turn left and then another left just after Hudson News. It's unmarked on the left hand side". Pretty much hidden is my take. Pleasant dragon but LH F pax only get departure access, not arrival.

By the time I get back to the B-7 RCC, CO1773 is now showing a 12:03a departure, Ugh. At about 9:45p, we move from the RCC over to Wolfgang Puck to split a pizza and then to the not-a-single-power-outlet-anywhere-to-recharge gate area to wait, wait, wait for the inbound to arrive. Our inbound pulled in at 11:03p, began boarding at 11:25p, push-back at 11:48p, wheels up 11:55p. Fortunately, tonight's metal was an older configuration 738. It was quite comfortable for a domestic flight featuring the plush old F seats vs. the crappy flimsy new F seats. I declined tonight's snack service and slept most of the way.

We touched down at SFO at about 2:00a, our priority tagged bags were among the first few bags off the carousel and we were home in the Marina just before 3am. What a wonderful trip to the Baltic region, and our first but not last visit to amazing St. Petersburg.