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Eight Days in Thailand

Eight Days in Thailand
via Cathay & Emirates A380 First Class
February 2011

Trisara

Phuket, Thailand

What a contrast from rural northern Thailand to the beaches of Phuket, which looks and feels a lot like Hawaii. And what a spectacular resort of luxury private villas nestled on a hillside overlooking a private cove and the Bay of Bengal. Our great Trisara service started at the airport where a Trisara rep met as after baggage claim and coordinated pickup with a Trisara driver for our short 15 minute drive along the coast south of the airport.

The best photos are usually found on the resort website.
http://www.trisara.com/

We drove thru the beautifully landscaped entrance and road down to the main complex where we were greeted by front office manager Nadia and General Manager Anthony Lark, who welcome us and informed us that, as we booked thru a Virtuoso agent, he was pleased to be able to upgrade from Ocean View to Ocean Front Villa. The lovely Nadia (sorry no picture) escorted us by golf cart or "buggy" to our spectacular 2,500 sq. foot villa.

Great outdoor shower...

Beautiful lanai and pool area with an amazing ocean view, where we spent most of the day after watching the early morning Super Bowl, and a mid-morning workout at the gym...

Even better at sunset...

Great dinners at the outdoor restaurant overlooking the ocean, with a terrific, friendly staff especially Korn, although not quite as polished as the Four Seasons.

In summary, a beautiful luxury tropical resort with some of the nicest ocean front accommodations we've seen. If you don't like heat and humidity, this may not be the place for you, even in the more temperate winter season.

 

TG 202
HKT-BKK
B747-400
February 9, 2011
10:05A-11:35A
Seats 1AK

One of the best and most comfortable one hour flights I've had in a long time.

This is one of those TG flights that operates with a three class international 744 yet is sold only as a two class. So seats in the First Class cabin are available on a first come first served basis to those that know enough to ask for it. OLCI produced the now fully expected pre-assigned seats, with no changes permitted. Presumably due to my *G status, I was assigned 3A in the First Class cabin, but Mrs. SFO (on the same PNR) was assigned 25F (aisle seat "in the galley") in the lower Business Class cabin.

At check-in I asked the agent about changing seats resulting in this exchange.
Agent: Would you like seats in the upper deck?
SFO: I'd prefer two seats in the First Class cabin since I'm already there.
Agent: I don't have two seats together in that cabin, but I do have 1A and 1K.
SFO: Those would be great thank you!!

Smugly satisfied with my "coup" we head for our third Royal Silk lounge of the week, with funky 80's decor...

Then off to the gate...

And the usual handwritten TG sign...

Time to board....

Talk about spacious! All one hour domestic flights should be this nice.

Our classy cabin mates...

Giving me the evil eye...

TMI, TMI...

PDB included ginger tea which was very nice. Post departure, warm towels and another tasty hot fish dish, and more ginger tea, served by another friendly and efficient cabin crew.

Our flight path on descent into BKK...

Orient Thai 744 on final just ahead of us...

Taxing to the gate...

In summary, while TG's ground and boarding process leaves something to be desired and isn't even in the same league as AA, once on board, TG is a very good product. And while not the most current hard product, I'd definitely like to try long-haul TG First.

This was our first visit to Thailand, and we were so taken by the friendliness, personality and caring nature of so many of the Thais we met. What a great experience!
 

Emirates Check-in and Lounge at BKK

With our inbound TG flight arriving on time, I could finally relax as we had 2 hours to make our Emirates connection.
We found our way from domestic arrivals back upstairs to the massive check in/departure concourse.

Even though I had OLCI, I wanted to go to the EK counter. Unfortunately, the EK counter was about a half mile away at the T lane and the Princess decided she wasn't going anywhere since Passport Control was right in front of her. Probably a reasonable stand although I suspected that there was another passport control/security line closer to T, or at least a CIP lane. Anyway, I wandered off down to the counter and snapped a couple of pics.

Since she was not with me and there was another pax at the counter, I decided to return to the Princess and just go thru the regular Passport Control. With no apparent premium lanes, we joined the regular queue and naturally selected the slowest moving line.

Twenty minutes later we were finally thru passport control and security, into what can best be described as a shopping mall, signs for gates but just store after store after store. I knew I was in trouble when our concourse was available in either direction. About a half mile later after going right, we came to the D/E concourse split and another security entrance, no doubt very close to the EK counter. But I digress and complaining won't get me anywhere. Finally Airline Lounge signs point us in the right direction, to the lower level and the Emirates Lounge.

Apparently Emirates OLCI is not quite as sophisticated as some, as the dragon required about 15 minutes (she told us to enter and she would find us with our passports and BPs) of keyboard and manual/telephone time to enter "our information".

The lounge is quite attractive although it serves as a combination Business/First lounge with no distinction between the pax.

With a nice sit-down dining area and an excellent selection of self-serve food and beverages...

Although the lounge dragon advised us of a 15 minute delay, we left at T-45 just to make sure I had enough time for pics.
About 5 minutes later, we were at E-8 and my first up close look at the 380.

As you can imagine, the gate area was pretty crowded...

Boarding can best be described as chaotic. As a bunch of pre-boards were quietly escorted on board, I decided that it was time to get closer to the door. We managed to get our BPs scanned once again and entered the near door holding area, staying to the right side which was the F/J door. Five minutes later, the GAs started letting pax board, without any announcement I heard.

F/J pax boarded directly onto the 2nd level of the A380 in the galley area between F and J. A left turn and we were in the First Class cabin.

Up next: Lots of pics of the Emirates A380 First Class Suites and cabin.

EK 384
BKK-HKG
A380-800
February 8, 2011
1:45P-5:20P
Suites 1A and 2A

As one turns left, the first impression is of a very elegant cabin.

Video: A380 First Class cabin tour in HD

To our suites, Mrs. SFO immediately claiming 2A...

... Relegating me to seatguru yellow-flagged 1A. I was struck by the small width of the seats and the suite itself. The curvature of the cabin wall on the single window seats makes the space even smaller. Absent this curvature, the middle pair seats seem more open and spacious. And in the case of 1A, with only two of the four windows of the other window seats making it seem even smaller and more confining. On the other hand, there was considerably more storage space (than CX) underneath the entertainment console to store both a wheeled carry-on and a backpack. Very nicely appointed console with orchid, mini shade lamp and personal snack basket, which other than a can of Pringles, was heavy on the sweets.

Major issue are the seat controls, which are on a touch screen TV, that was fixed in place at an odd angle. While it appears that it may indeed be removable or portable, there was no obvious way I could find to remove it. With the window shades open, it was nearly impossible to see the controls without contorting one's body to see the damn controls.

And in the not very elegant department, the duvet/mattress are stored out in the open between the seat and the cabin wall.

The in suite minibar...

Seatguru claims 1A is little narrower than other seats but I couldn't see much difference. The negatives about this seat are the absence of two (of the normal four) windows, an even more pronounced deficiency since we're already dealing with smaller Airbus windows. In addition, some may be bothered by the view from 1A...

Other suite features including headset and writing set...

And IFE system which functions at all times, including taxi, takeoff and landing!

And the really cool remote control electronic double blind...

Video: Video of electronic blind

Time to explore the cabin before take-off. In the foyer in front of my seat was a really cool water feature...

Video: A380 First Class water fall in HD

And of course the amazing lav including shower and hidden toilet.

Video: A380 First Class lav shower tour in HD

And the stairs separating us from the unwashed masses...

Our two (or three) FAs provided excellent pre-departure service including six separate rounds, in order...

- PDB including Dom
- Newspapers
- Magazines
- Slippers and eyeshades
- Dates and Arabic Coffee
- Hot Towels

Today's route...

And a very cool outside camera feature shows us taxiing for takeoff...


Shortly after takeoff, the FAs began meal service. Unfortunately, this FA was not working the flight today. 

Nor apparently was the same crew that did the pre-departure service, presumably running out of gas once we were airborne. Things started out well when the FA brought a nice leather bound menu and wine list, and took my drink order. A glass of Dom please. Sorry, I thought I took pics of the the menu itself, but no can find, and I've discarded the menu. 

The tray table is elegant and quite large. The only problem with the tray table is that releasing the table from the cabinet requires that one push a button. Unfortunately, even a modest seat recline covers up the button, requiring that one return the seat to the upright position to release the tray table.  A few minutes later, still no Dom, but our FA returned with a large linen tablecloth and took my lunch order.

A few minutes later, FA brings the bread basket. OK, where's the Dom? Surely, another FA is on the way with it. Another five minutes and still no Dom, but here comes lunch! Our FA brings what looks like a Business Class tray with salad and my starter. Apparently, the Dom is not going to arrive on its own. After I remind him that I'm still waiting for the Dom, he apologizes and scurries off returning 20 seconds later with a bottle of Dom.

My starter was some weird looking pickled veggie salad with chicken. Unfortunately it was inedible. The chicken had apparently turned into something with the consistency of leather and I gave up, fearing a loss of a few teeth. The salad, although at least chewable, wasn't much better. But I now had my Dom, and my FA did return for periodic refills. And the bread and butter were good!

Next up was the beef tenderloin with au gratin potatoes, snow pea pods and (I think) sweet potatoes. The au gratin potatoes were excellent, but the beef was disgusting and cooked beyond well done. Yeah, let's keep it in a hot oven for 10 hours and drain every drop of juice from it. 

I was going to have a glass of the Shiraz but my FA never asked and then left so fast that I couldn't even ask. Yeah, I could have pushed my call button, but that probably required me to return my seat to its upright position!  And I had my 4th glass of Dom, so why change a good thing.

Next up was dessert, a pretty looking mille feuille. I figure, this will be tough to screw up. But no, ding-ding-ding, we have a winner for the most inedible mille feuille I have ever tasted. OK the custard was tasty, but I couldn't cut the pastry, first with my fork and then with the freaking knife. All I managed to do was pancake the pastry onto the plate and eat the custard that squirted out.

Mercifully, the meal ended with me having not eaten much of anything, but thinking longingly of an AA dinner. 
Just as well I didn't eat much anyway, since we had a 7:30P reservation at Spoon.

After "lunch", I decided to explore the rest of the upper deck. The lounge is waay back, at the back of the Business Class section. The 80 seat J section was quite large and actually looked pretty comfortable. I also discovered where my lunch tray came from. Indeed as btang noted, it was a Business Class lunch.

The lounge itself was pretty nice and an attractive addition for J pax. Today, during meal service, it was empty but still hectic as the J galley is at the back end of the lounge, open to the lounge and with much activity with FAs back and forth, trying to complete lunch service for 80 J pax. Some nice premium booze including Grey Goose and Bombay, certainly a step up from the crappy Gordon's Gin on CX.

Also discovered dishes of mix nuts, which F pax (or at least this one) didn't get.

In summary, I'm glad I sampled Emirates and the new A380, but I don't think I'd rush back to fly them any time soon. As confirmed by roadwarriorafrica and avm2806, my experience does not seem to be an aberration. Positive included the 380, the elegant looking First cabin, showers, remote controlled window shades. But other than that, it was pretty disappointing.
 

I've uploaded some additional videos that I "found" when cleaning up my camera.
The last one is our approach and landing at SFO including the downtown skyline on a perfect sunny day.

A380 electronic blinds and EK384 landing at HKG...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NY2eRXOwuqI

Another tour of the CX 777 First Class cabin...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBVuENM808s

Taxing and take-off of CX870 from HKG...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8sgOps4qOI

Approach and landing at SFO including skyline...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rflPM5NFJlY

Overnight in Hong Kong

There is something about a 1AM departure that makes me revolt, especially after two flights earlier in the day. Fortunately, I found out that CX opens a lot of extra First Class inventory for awards 2-3 day before travel. I really wanted a daytime HKG departure, but it was not available when we originally booked. But once in Phuket, everything opened up and we had the option of changing to either CX flight on any of three consecutive days. So we decided to cut Phuket by a day, overnight in HKG, take the daytime CX flight and get home at 10AM.

Mrs. SFO had never been outside HKG so I wanted to introduce her to Hong Kong. While not a great hotel, I picked the Intercontinental for the views and Alain Ducasse. Our Intercontinental limo picked us up around 6PM and we were at the hotel a half hour later. Yes the rooms are crappy, but the view and location make it. Not to mention the availability of Fox News, thrilling Mrs. SFO who had suffered from 9 days of withdrawal from "Fair and Balanced".

After our fabulous September dinner at Jules Verne, Mrs. SFO wanted to try Spoon. It was sensational. Fabulous service and a window table with a front row view of the light show. Although almost everyone had a window seat as I would guess less than 15% of the tables were occupied. It can't be the food that is keeping people away, so I suspect that the sky high prices are the culprit. My foie gras was amazing as was the tenderloin. Princess had an wonderful market green salad and melt-in-her-mouth rack of lamb. Spoon has an impressive wine by the glass (or 1/3 liter carafe) list featuring excellent French, California and Australian wines.

It was a beautiful +20C evening and after dinner, we walked the waterfront before heading over to the Peninsula and a drink at Felix.

The view from Felix...

And morning brings great pics of Star Ferry and the skyline...

One final view from the Intercontinental Lobby Bar...

Next: Time to go home

With a 14:05 departure and (mercifully) no time for shopping this morning, we left the hotel at around 11:00am.

And arrived at a deserted T1 departure area approximately a half hour later.

Great Intercontinental service as the hotel rep greeted us at the departure level, took our carry-ons and escorted us to the CX First Class check-in counter. Very nice and spacious area, today manned (or definitely "womanned") by a most lovely CX agent.

Oh yes...

I like the pax information screen that displayed our flight and destination information...

OK so I'm spoiled but, while quite nice, it pales in comparison to the LH FCT in FRA and SQ's First Class check-in at SIN...

With a personal escort to the FCL...

With no one else at security and passport control this morning, we breezed thru, and with our Gate 4 departure, headed for our first day-time experience in The Wing. While very pleasant and comfortable with wonderful staff, IMO it comes up short again compared to the LH FCT/FCLs in FRA or MUC, or the SKL Private Room at SIN. Although today's atmosphere was affected by a young family of four including two loud and obnoxious little kids, all of who seemed to be sampling every food item in the dining room. Fortunately, they retired to the Library after lunch, not doubt sleeping off their glutony. Anyway... food in the dining was as excellent as before, although I totally forgot about taking pics today.

At around T-35, we walked thru the (huge) Business Class portion of The Wing to the elevator down to the departure level. After the additional (and rather pointless) hand bag check security, we headed for Gate 4 and queued for a couple of minutes with J pax before boarding commenced.

 

CX870
HKG-SFO
777-300
February 9, 2011
2:05P-10:00A
Suites 1K and 2K

Although the First Class cabin was 0/6 when I changed our reservation yesterday, all six seats were filled by flight time. Despite a couple of phone calls, I was unable to select either of the two "Blocked" seats 2A or 2K prior to airport check-in, where the agent released 2K to us so we wound up with the same 1A and 2K as our outbound.

We were the first two F pax to board and exchanged hellos and pleasantries with Rose and Audrey, our two wonderful FAs for today's 11 hour flight. No cabin pics today as it was the same equipment as our outbound. The first of many glasses of Krug...

While Mrs. SFO insisted on only water today. Her newly found sobriety lasted about 5 minutes until she came to visit me in 1K and started drinking mine. Rose, could you please get my wife a glass of Krug so she'll stopping drinking mine??

Interesting maintenance fix in my suite...

And not the prettiest caulking job...

On time push-back and our short taxi today...

Amarillo? Seriously? Of all the cities they could display on the map, they picked Amarillo?

Shortly after take-off, Rose and Cheryl were in the cabin offering drinks and mixed nuts. Another glass of Krug, please. The captain had previously announced that we would "might" experience a "bit of turbulence" as we approached the coast of Japan. Unfortunately, that bit of turbulence started about an hour out, well before we were even near Japan, and continued on and off, and in varying degrees for the next five hours. Initially, it was a light to moderate chop, and did not impact the start of lunch service.

The always great CX caviar and smoked salmon with Krug...

Very nice mixed green salad...

But the soup (sorry can't remember what was actually in it) was not particularly good.

Today, I wanted to try a proper glass of Lynch Bages, instead of my previous pop and pour version. FA Rose assured me that she would have open bottles as two other pax were already drinking it. Just to make sure it had time to breathe, I asked for a glass two courses before my beef. Well, you know what they say about the best laid plans...

It was at about this time that light to moderate chop turned to some serious turbulence, prompting FA announcement that they were discontinuing hot beverage service. About two minutes later, the bottom fell out, literally, with a few minutes of some of the worst turbulence I've experienced in a long time, including one episode that caused the Lynch Bages to hit the ceiling and cabin wall. Like a crazed FTer, of course my first move was to grab my camera and take a picture.

Rose and Cheryl rushed thru the cabin to quickly clean up the mess and remove everything from our meal service and batten down the hatches. About 20 minutes later, after the worst of the current turbulence had subsided, lunch service resumed.

Unfortunately, by that time my beef was even more well done than on Emirates. Although the Lynch Bages, now properly open and no doubt vigorously shaken was very good and quite enjoyable.

Desert was delicious and accompanied only by mild chop.

Let me preface this next part by saying that while I love to fly, I hate turbulence. And while I realize that these planes are designed to take a beating, it still doesn't make me feel any better. With 150 segments a year and at least a third of these over the Rockies, I'm pretty familiar with turbulence and the general patterns of turbulence.

I just had the feeling early on that today was not ordinary. Indeed we were subjected to roughly five hours of frequent fairly intense heavy turbulence. For 4+ hours after the meal service, there was simply no pattern, no gradual reduction, just flat out frequent periodic bad turbulence. Just when you thought that things have calmed down and perhaps we're thru the worst of it, boom. Even the cockpit crew seemed at a loss. At one point after 5 minutes of relative calm, they turned the seat belt sign off. Within 10 seconds, a couple of chops and then, boom, the bottom fell out again.

For 4+ hours, my beverage was bottled water, with the top on. It was miserable, whether sitting, reclining, watching a movie, or in bed trying to sleep. To the point where you start thinking "is this it?", or my morbid "if I'm going down at least I'm in First", and OK we're in the middle of nowhere, where do we go if we have to land? February in Siberia is very cold.

At one point during a brief lull, Mrs. SFO decides to try to make her way to the lav.
Me: Where are you doing?
Mrs.: I have to go.
Me: You can't be serious? Do what you want, but I wouldn't even try it.
She thinks for a couple of seconds and heads back to her seat, buckling in just in time for the next boom rock and roll, after which I hear.
Mrs.: OK, you were right.

I would rank this in my top three bad turbulence experiences vying with an old Southern Airways flight where the idiotic crew flew into a thunderstorm and a UAX thunderstorm prop flight from ORD-TVC complete with drinks on the ceiling, screaming and throwing up.

Back to our flight, I eventually fell asleep but woke up a little later, still some four hours out of SFO, to much less severe chop. The last three hours were nice and calm.

Time for breakfast starting with a fruit plate...

And delicious scrambled eggs with sausage and Canadian bacon...

As we begin our descent to SFO, breath-taking views of the California coast...

The right place at the right time, very cool shot of a UA 777 (I think) having just taken off from runway 28 at SFO.

Wheels down on final approaching the San Mateo Bridge...

We touched down on runway 28L about a half hour late, just under 10 days after we left. Turbulence aside, another great CX First experience. I can't think of a more comfortable First Class seat and suite I've had the pleasure spend time in. And what a great trip. Our first time in Thailand and memories of the wonderful people we met will stay with us for a long time.