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Six days in India

Six days in India
via Swiss, Emirates and BA First
February 2013

Jet Airways 9W 256
BOM-CMB
Business Class
Seats 2CD
737-800
2:05A-5:00A (sked)
2:05A-4:35A (actual)
February 10, 2013

At T-50, we headed out for the hike to Gate 4. Yep, another bus gate. Boarding started at T-35 and five minutes later we were boarding at a remote stand. Completely full flight tonight including all 6 rows of Business. Comfortable seating and even more leg room than on the JetKonnect flight earlier in the day.

One of bad things about a tarmac boarding position is that the doors are wide open to the elements, and in BOM that means mosquitoes, the one thing we didn't want to see. We had taken our malaria meds but the sight of a couple of mosquitoes was all it took for us to lather up with more Deet. The guy in 1B killed one of them much to the delight of the couple in 1CD and Jr and me.

PDBs and bottled water prior to push.

After TO, our FAs promptly started service.

With a full meal service on a two hour 2AM departure.

Not many takers tonight but I took one for the team, opting for the odd Chicken Quiche, Mexican Chicken Wrap combo. Both were delicious.

Yay, CMB has jet bridges and we got to use them tonight without enduring another bus shuttle.

 

Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB)
Colombo, Sri Lanka

Surprising amount of activity at 4:30AM. We headed toward immigration and the exit, not quite sure what the drill was for transiting passengers.

One of Sri Lanka's most famous exports... former Miss Sri Lanka and Bollywood star, Jacqueline Fernandez. Doesn't sound very Sri Lankan though.

At the end of the concourse, immigration is on the left and transfers are to the right with a transit service center in the middle.

Since we were already in the departure concourse for our EK flight, there was no need to clear immigration, and apparently no need for our visas, although we might have had trouble checking in at JAI without the documentation.

The first order of business was to check in for our EK flights and get boarding passes. Since the EK lounge didn't open for another two hours, we went to the SriLankan Airlines Transfer Desk, as they are agents for most airlines that serve the airport. Lovely agent checked us in but could not issue boarding passes due to a computer problem. She said she would call the EK lounge and explain that we still need our BPs.

Unfortunately, the EK Lounge only opens three hours before each departure, so 0650, or nearly two hours from then. As we had passed two other lounges in the walk from our gate, we back-tracked and used my free Priority Pass card (from Amex Platinum) at the Lotus Lounge.

Not the nicest lounge but it was quiet and had fast internet service.

But it did have quite an impressive array and food and beverage, especially for 5AM.

And a small Business Centre.

At around 5:30AM, in one of the most amazing displays of customer service I've seen in years, the SriLankan agent who was having trouble printing our boarding passes, found us in our corner of the lounge and gave us both our CMB-DXB and DXB-LHR boarding passes. Apparently, when she discovered the EK lounge was closed, she started looking for us in each lounge until she found us. Wow.

At around 7AM, we bid adieu to the pleasant lounge dragon and headed off to the impressive Emirates Lounge.

 

 

The Emirates Lounge at CMB
OK, now we're talking lounges. EK spares no expenses with their lounges. Spacious, comfortable and surprisingly tasteful for Bling Air. BTW, the EK Lounge is located on the 2nd level (via elevator), right next to the in terminal transit hotel.

And a great selection of food and beverages.

I had delicious eggs and sausage breakfast.

Great views of the tarmac and gates from the lounge.

The newest One World member.

The usual EK Lounge Prayer Room...

...Although not sure what would cause it to be "Out of Order."

At about T-65, our beautiful 77W arrived, although only the two class version instead of the three class when I originally booked it.

All in all, a pleasant 2.5 hours in a great lounge. And kudos to a most helpful EK lounge dragon who changed my FF# from EK to my Alaska Airlines account and confirmed our EK limo booking at LHR.

 

Emirates EK 651
CMB-DXB
2 class 777-300ER (Downgraded from 3 class First Suites 77W)
February 10, 2013
9:50A-12:55P
Seats 3JK

I first heard about the cheap EK/AA x-CMB First Class fares a few years ago. And now that I was "in the area", this was a no brainer to go for it, especially with no Mrs. SFO to complain about the number of flights and time spent.

For $1,920 all in, I got:
- CMB-DXB in EK 77W First Suites
- DXB-LHR in EK A380 First Suites
- LHR-LAX in BA First
- LAX-DEN in AA First

And earned the following miles:
-AA: 6,305 EQMs and 15,762 RDMs
-AS: 8,186 EQMs and 13,653 RDMs
-UA: 1,296 EQMs and 2,155 RDMs (bonus miles when BA rebooked due to late arrival)

The bummer about today's flight is that it was originally booked in 77W First Class Suites. But EK downgraded the flight from three classes to two classes. I complained to EK, both the Gold line and CMB operations. Both were useless to deal with. I only got action when my TA contacted an EK regional sales VP. They offered acceptable compensation for the downgrade.

The J cabin was visually attractive in a blingish way, but 2-3-2 is not my idea of comfort. Seats were OK but the wall between the seats is confining, restricts elbow room and is really annoying, IMO. It was OK for three hours but I wouldn't want to sit in this sucker much longer than that.

On the other hand, IFE is great with nose, tail and undercarriage cams.

Shortly after take-off, our (very attractive) female FAs began outstanding inflight service.

Today's menu...

My Shrimp machbous was really good... marinated shrimp in Arabic spices cooked with oriental style rice, garnished with fried onions and pine nuts.

The Strawberry Cream delight was indeed a delight.

Up Next: O.M.G. The unbelievable new First Class Lounge in T3.

The New Emirates First Class Lounge at DXB

Words and even pictures are not going to adequately describe this amazing facility. The most incredible First Class lounge on the planet. It occupies the the entire 4th level of the A concourse, from one end to the other. Acres and acres of lounges, bars, restaurants, dining rooms, spas, quiet rooms, business facilities and shopping. Emirates has thought of everything including direct boarding from the FCL to each gate in the A concourse, including a luxurious seating area and prayer room at each gate. Quite frankly, it is overwhelming for the first time visitor. We were there for three hours and I could have stayed all day.

Our CMB-DXB flight arrived at one of the A gates and it was an easy walk to the escalator to the FCL. Spacious entrance lobby with 8-10 agent stations to check-in and assist travelers.

The lounge is essentially two mirror lounges with the same facilities on each side and duty free shops in the middle.

While Jr plunked himself down at the first bar, I did a walk-around, pretty much in awe of what I saw.

At the far end of each side is an amazing lounge, dining facility with an impressive food and drink spread. Wait staff is every where and eager to serve.

Each side of the lounge also has a beautiful fine dining room.

Each side has a spa.

More exploring...

And a kids room complete with Sony PlayStation.

And a business centre

Shopping for those in the back of the plane. 

We decided to plunk ourselves down in the Cigar Lounge, although for some reason, they weren't ready for cigars yet. The wait staff was eager to serve and please and we had a drink and ordered some food.

Great pupu platter to start. The salmon and lamb burger were very good.

This was the Cigar Bar menu, but I suspect that this is the menu for the entire lounge, although the FIne Dining room probably has its own menu.

After lunch, I went exploring and browsed the duty free shops. There are two duty free shops, perfumes and booze on one side, jewelry on the other side.

With some great wines...

And even more wine in the wonderful fine wine and spirits shop.

The FCL access to each gate has its own mini lounge, with comfy seating if you have to wait for boarding to begin. Also, a prayer room at each gate.

Conclusion:
Sure the LH FCT is great especially with limo service to the plane, but EK has taken First Class to an entirely new level. If I were traveling anywhere where a DXB connection was an option, even an out of the way option, I would absolutely do it. And I guess that's what EK is hoping. Heck, I would even consider flying US-Europe via DXB if the fares were competitive.
 

Emirates EK 005
DXB-LHR
A380-800
February 10, 2013
4:15P-8:15P
Departed 11/14
Seats 2EF

My one and only prior EK A380 experience was a short BKK-HKG flight a couple of years ago. Not long enough for the full treatment and service issues made it less than satisfactory. But today was completely different. From boarding to the limo ride in LHR, this was one great experience.

The FCL direct access to our gate was wonderful. Comfy and elegant gate seating area. Then just follow the signs to the private elevator that goes down two levels to the jet bridge itself.

Not quite sure how Economy pax would even get up here.

Or Business Class for that matter. OK, maybe guests?

OK, the cabin is a little blingy but still very nice. Plus, I knew what to expect and and you do get used to it. The seats are comfortable, but as other have noted, the 1-2-1 seating especially on the upper deck and the suite design makes the seat a little narrow and tight. The window seats probably feel a little more spacious. KE's 1-2-1 on the lower deck is more open and feel more spacious although their lack of doors definitely makes it less private. It will be interesting to check out SQ's A380 Suites next month and then with Mrs. SFO in April. Unfortunately, she has already told me that there will be no joining the mile high club in our double bed suite. 

The A380 Suite Guide.

The live HD camera shots are really cool.

After take-off, a great crew of international FAs provided near eight hours of nearly flawless service. Jr and I were fortunate to be served by a gorgeous late twenty-something Thai FA, who teased and flirted with both us for much of the flight, to the point of being admonished by the Purser at one point. Hey kid, if you don't her number, I will. 

Great IFE system with loads of movies and music from all genres.

On board WiFi is a great idea...

... even better if it worked. Perhaps another flight.

Today's menu...

Jr decided to eat first while I waited another hour or so.

I passed on the caviar and decided to start with the Traditional local Arabic mezze. It was delicious.

For my main, I chose the Red Snapper, with escabeche sauce, braised fennel, onion and steamed rice. Was a tad dry but still very good.

The orange flavored baked cheesecake was outstanding.

Time to tour the front of the F cabin, starting with the self-serve bar.

And right beside the bar, the most amazing bathrooms in the sky.

I didn't visit the Business Class cabin which occupies the rest of the upper deck, but here are some pics from Mrs. SFO and my BKK-HKG flight.

The lounge itself was pretty nice and an attractive addition for J pax.

Our A380 arrived LHR about a half hour early. Our FA's held back the J class pax so that F pax could deplane first and get a jump on any FastTrack queue. Quick and easy clearance and we exited into the arrivals area and headed straight for the impressive Emirates Chauffeur Drive Lounge area. We gave our name and were directed outside where our S class Mercedes was waiting curbside to whisk us to the nearby Sheraton. Wow, that sure beats the shuttle.

In summary, I thoroughly enjoyed my full day with Emirates, from the lounges to great inflight service. While the A380 First Class seat is a little narrow and the suite a little small compared to CX, the overall product is more than enough to make me return.

 

Less than 12 hours later, after a comfortable evening at the Sheraton Skyline, we were back, this time at T5 where our bizarre day with BA began.

British Airways
T5 First Class Check-in and the Concorde Room

Can I be honest? An absolutely rubbish day for BA today. One that erased positive memories of last October and will make me wait a long time before coming back. First Class check-in dragon cops a snooty "are you sure you belong here" attitude, asking "are you traveling in First today?" Uh no, I'm just here to take in the scenery.

Pics from last October...

Based on experience with other airlines, I expected some of BA's more competent staff manning the F desks. Bad assumption today. Our First Class check-in agent can't figure out how to enter my AAdvantage EXP number into the system. Seriously? He turns his screen to show me as if he'd like me to help. Yes, that's it there... Executive Platinum. Next, he can't figure out how to print our LAX-DEN connecting boarding passes. Seriously? At this point, he excuses himself and walks off to get assistance, returning with someone who takes less than 10 seconds to get the BPs to print. I'm guessing trainee or clueless? Maybe both.

British Airways Concorde Room

Like a pretty girl you meet for the first time, I previously compared the Concorde Room to the LH FCT/FCL in FRA/MUC, SQ's Private Room in SIN and the QF FCL in SYD. On the second date, I'm have second thoughts and am seeing this thing more critically, warts and all. A combination of old and new pics...

Even though the lounge was pretty crowded, we get a table right away. Bloody Marys and fruit appear pretty promptly...

... But it takes 30 minutes for the most positively horrid eggs to appear. Then again, maybe the typical British breakfast is just that awful.

I do recall my gross arrival Eggs Benedict from last fall, so maybe this is par for the course at T5.

British Airways BA 283
London LHR to Los Angeles LAX
747-400
Old First
10:25A-1:30P (sked)
12:40P-3:15P (actual)
February 11, 2013
Departed 14/14
Seats 2AK
 
At about T-45, our PA finds us and escorts us to the limo dispatch centre for our S-class drive to our gate. LOL. Just checking to see if you were all paying attention. OK, back to reality, we head for the train and the ride over to the B concourse and B35. Refreshing lack of gate lice today and priority boarding commenced a couple of minutes after we arrived at the gate.
 
But only one door is in use today and it's 2L. The good news for J and Y pax is that Business and Coach pax get what appears to be New Business and New Coach. The bad news for Jr and I is that First pax get the crappy old cramped 14 seats in the pointy end First. Seriously? BA refurbishes only part of the plane?
 

Pics from earlier...

For First pax, the good news is a very attentive cabin crew, who warmly welcomed us on board.  LP Grand Siecle is always nice even if I am sitting in a crappy seat.

The bad news is a seemingly disorganized cockpit crew today. Most cockpit crews are really good about keeping pax informed about departure and any delays. But not today. T+10 and the captain finally says hello and announces "just few more minutes for paperwork". Paperwork, my butt. I'm not buying it. T+30 and finally we push at B35. Not even 100 metres of taxi and full stop. At T-40, FO announces de-icing valve in one of the engines is not working and that we have to return to the, or a gate. At T+50, we are still sitting in the same place when FO announces that gate approach guidance system is not functioning, and it will be a further delay until they can get it working or get someone out to fix it. Seriously, how about revving engines, turn wheels and following the paint on the tarmac or lights on the terminal wall. T+60 and cockpit crew figures out how to reset guidance system. Captain announces that it will be 30-35 minutes to fix the problem. I'm not buying that one either. Fifty minutes later, our second push of the day at T+110. We begin our taxi to nearby runway 27R and appear to be #4 behind one BA and two AC 763s.

OK, we still have a chance to make our 3:35P connection. Next, cockpit crew makes a sharp right and left and full stop on a secondary taxiway. At least 10 other aircraft pass us and take-off.

Finally, at T+140, we roll and take off. Estimated arrival time of 3:10P. Guaranteed missed connection. I am tempted to make a joke about "women drivers" but I will refrain.

I really feel sorry for BA crews. My experience has been that they are mostly professional and very good at their jobs. To be saddled with an inferior product is a shame. Today's meal was embarrassing. OK I don't expect LX or EK quality, but this was one of the sorriest excuses for an international First Class meal that I have seen in a long time.

Yeah, now that's a lovely towel.

Not the most elegant set up and an oddly shaped table.

Today's menu...

Best International First Class Wine List?
Better than some, but it's no EK.

It's one thing to pick nice wines to serve, but the whole thing falls apart when wine is not properly served. Major faux pas as the Puligny was room temperature and undrinkable. And who taught FAs to pour a completely full glass of the Twomey or any other wine?

The amuse-bouche was the only good part of today's meal.

The warm curried cauliflower mousse was dry and tasteless.

Fresh seasonal salad was forgettable. Thimble of dressing was poured on top not mixed. Had to ask for more dressing to even taste it.

The BA Classic Seared filet of British beef was terrible... well done, tough to cut, even tougher to eat.  And here I always thought horse meat was more tender. 

OK, finally something edible... the ice cream sundae with all the fixings was pretty good.

Wow, that was a first class meal? Seriously? Not even close to EK, LX, LH, KE, CX or any another other international airline I've flown recently. AA's midcon domestic meals are better than this.

IFE was disappointing ... ancient pop up TV screen and crappy blurred video. Unless I was sitting in Business in which case I would have been able to watch a flat screen with higher resolution. Shall we talk about power, or lack thereof? An Empower DC power source is useless with a current generation of MacBook Pros.

Our helpful FA offered to recharge my laptop in Business where they actually have 110V power outlets. Seriously again? There is regular power in Business but only empower in First? I headed back to 21D to plug in, notice the much better IFE resolution and decide to stay in 21D and work for the next couple of hours, while my laptop recharged.

With a fully charged MacBook, I almost reluctantly headed back to 2K for my Afternoon Tea. This time, I think I sliced and applied the cream and jam in the proper British sequence. Prospero and Betteronacamel, how did I do?

Nice scenery on the final leg of the flight.

We finally landed at LAX two hours late. Can't imagine BA made money on this flight today. Tons of misconnects as the BA rep had at least 40 ticket jackets with new connecting vouchers. To their credit, BA found and purchased 2 First seats for us on the 5:52P United flight. Suspect they lost money on us today considering we were on the el cheapo x-CMB First fare.

Summary:
Very disappointing day with BA, which IMO is just a mediocre mid-tier airline.
Don't know how they even compete against Asian and other quality European airlines. And since I can't imagine AA would be any worse, my next LHR-LAX on the xCMB fare will be on AA.
 

 

Going home
LAX-DEN

In spite of our new UA booking from BA, AA.com assumed a misconnect and automatically rebooked us on the next AA flight...at 9:45P. But wait, AA.com is showing our original 3:35P delayed until 4:05P and still plenty of open seats. If it were just me, I could have made it. But Jr is still waiting for his Global Entry interview so we lost 5 minutes at customs. Then slow T4 AA Priority security and 5 minutes for the shuttle bus and we got the AA bus terminal just as our DEN flight was pushing. Ah, so close. So we backtracked and headed for T6 and UA check-in, arriving at the United Club at T-60.

UA 1734
LAX-DEN
737-800
DirecTV and PDB
5:52P-9:07P
February 11, 2013
Dinner

Pleasant two hour domestic flight with live satellite DirecTV and excellent service from a combined DEN/EWR crew.  Choice of chicken or chicken, the chicken salad or carb overload chicken parmesan calzone, with tomato herb soup. Oatmeal raisin cookies for dessert. Calzone was pretty good (for United) as long as you treat it like a Boudin-type bread bowl and only eat the cheese and chicken.

We touched down at DEN ten minutes early and only two hours later than our originally scheduled flight... nine days after we left. What a great trip to a fascinating India. I would go back if Mrs. SFO wanted to, but I'm afraid pigs will fly before that happens. Jr and I met a lot of wonderful people along the way and experienced some great First Class service. Thanks everyone for coming along for the ride, for reading and for commenting on my report.