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New Years in Buenos Aires

New Years in Buenos Aires
via American Airlines Flagship First
January 2014

With most Mendoza restaurants closed on New Years Day, we only had a few options. But PH concierge Barbara came up with a gem. "How about dinner at a chef's home?" Really? Si, sign us up. On a quiet residential street a short 10 minutes from the PH is Ituzaingo Resto, one of the most unique dining experiences we have ever had. Gonzalo is an amiable host and creates a thoroughly enjoyable evening of wine, food and conversation. Gonzalo's friendly boxer Titi, welcomed us at the front door.   

Gonzalo and his GF/SO.

Outside, the courtyard is beautiful with multiple seating areas in different settings under the trees. Only four other guests tonight made it a small and convivial group.

The tiny kitchen where the staff creates amazing meals.

We all enjoyed a variety of wonderful taste sensations, staring with gazpacho.

Great ceviche.

And the best empanadas of the trip.

For starters, we had a choice of fresh salad with trout or beef carpaccio.

For the main, I had the filet.

Perfectly medium rare.

Our buddy.

A quick three hours later, we bid adieu after a most enjoyable evening. Iuzaingo Resto, Gonzalo and Titi are musts for anyone visiting Mendoza.

PH concierge Jessica arranged a great day of wine tasting starting with Cobos and Ruca Malen. After checking out, we left the PH with our bags around 10:30A. Our personable driver Nicholas dropped us off at Vina Cobos. This great winery is part owned by Napa winemaker Paul Hobbs.

Excellent introduction to Cobos from our host Pablo.

And a tour of the facilities.

Followed by wine tasting in an intimate setting with only two others, a lovely Dutch couple who live in Barcelona.

Sad to leave, but more wine and food await a few kilometers down the road.

Next up was Bodega Ruca Malen where we had lunch reservations.

Spectacular setting on a perfect day.

Our front row table.

And great views of the Andes.

And a great lunch with six different wine pairings.

What an amazing lunch in an idyllic setting!

Since it was now almost 3:30P, we decided to pass on a third winery today and head right for the Cavas Wine Lodge.

OK, now we're talking!



 

And the walk to our villa.

And our room, just a little better than the Park Hyatt.

The view from our rooftop deck.

And a selfie in the bathroom.

Dinner was outside under the stars.

With amazing views

And the main lodge at night.

Our last full day in Mendoza was another spectacular day. The morning view from the rooftop of our villa.

Our first stop this morning was Achaval-Ferrer, a short 15 minute drive.

And then to Bodega Casarena.

And then to lunch at MUN Casarena, a fabulous Asian-Argentinian fusion restaurant and one of Mendoza/Lujan de Cuyo's hot new restaurants.
http://www.chefmun.com/

Today's menu.

Starting with The Mendoza Salad paired with Casarena's 505 Sauvignon Blanc 2012.

And wonderful orange honey-mustard dressing.

Chilean Salmon Nigiri & Yellowtail Tuna on Crispy Rice, paired with
Casarena's Rama Negra Reserva Pinot Noir 2011.

The chef rejected the pork today so no Mun-style Dim Sum Pork Buns, but a very nice substitution, paired with a lovely Rosé.

And, OMG, the most amazing Korean Style Rib-eye and Organic Micro Greens, paired with Casarena's Rama Negra Reserva Malbec 2011.

And to finish today's culinary orgy, a delicious Melon Panna Cotta with Strawberry Coulis & Cocoa Tuiles, paired with Casarena's Rama Negra Extra Brut.

No mas! Time to head home for nap.

And one last dinner at wonderful Cavas Wine Lodge.

Clear skies and more great views tonight.

And a special dessert for our friend's B-Day.

And back to our villa before our 4AM wake-up call. OMG!

After a short night and an very early 4AM wake-up call, our driver picked us up at 4:45PM for the 40 minute ride to Mendoza International.  Turned out we didn't need to arrive when we did as the LAN 3 hour before departure presentation was a bunch of nonsense. But considering this was our only flight option, I didn't want to chance it.

The LAN check-in counter was pretty much deserted when we arrived.

Because there is basically only one gate beyond security and they don't want to co-mingle pax from two different flights, we sat for a good hour in the terminal before it was "our turn" to go thru security and passport control. The line for security...

By now, the LAN counter line was packed.

Gate 1 and 2 and a duty free shop.

LA 937
Mendoza MDZ to Santiago SCL
A320
7:40A-8:30A
January 4, 2013
Seats 2CJ

As a One World Emerald, I was able to select cross aisle "Preferred" (E+) seats in the first four rows and get Preferente on my Boarding Pass allowing us to be the first to board. Our preferred seats had a few extra inches of leg room, and with both of us on the aisle, the 40 minute flight was OK.

Our personable Flight Attendant. No beverage service on the quick up and down flight. Although like on our MAD-FRA LAN flight last year, the purser personally welcome me (well actually Mrs. SFO since she was sitting in my seat) and one other pax and thanked us for being OW Emeralds.

With a 10PM departure, we had half a day to kill in Santiago. I booked a room at the San Cristobal Hotel where we could rest prior to heading out to the airport. But in the meantime, I had arranged with Roberto, the San Cristobal concierge, to be met by a driver and a guide for a three hour tour of Santiago prior to check-in. Santiago is an attractive city that seems a lot cleaner and more prosperous than BA.

Our first stop was the historic Mercado Central.

At Plaza des Armas, the city center, is historic Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago with construction dating back to the 18th century.

One of Santiago's most beautiful cathedrals still featuring damage from the recent earthquake.

Palacio de La Moneda, the seat of the President of the Republic of Chile.

And the square facing it.

The National Library.

And then east to the more modern, glitzy and tony parts of the city.

By now at almost 1PM, we were tired, so passed on the funicular and headed for the hotel.

San Cristobal Hotel
A Starwood Luxury Collection Property
Santiago, Chile

As an SPG Platinum, I booked an inexpensive room at the Luxury Collection's San Cristobal Hotel, hoping for a upgrade on a slow weekend. Very attractive hotel that is adjacent to a Sheraton and shares some bar/resto facilities.

Talk about upgrades! Not bad for US$220.

And our view.

A nice feature of the San Cristobal is the top floor restaurant/bar with sweeping views of Santiago.

Unfortunately, by late PM the winds had shifted and smoke from a nearby forest fire had drifted over the city.

 

Domingo, our guide from earlier today, was our driver tonight.   We arrived at the airport just over two hours before departure.  Well organized check-in with agents greeting pax before the lanes, insuring that they were in the proper line.

The worst part was the chaotic passport control snake lines which took about 20 minutes.

First stop was the SkyClub...

... which was by far the worst SkyClub I have ever visited. Way too small for all the J pax and credit card holders that had access.

With a pathetic selection of munchies.

And a challenged staff that couldn't or didn't keep up with demand.

And not enough glasses. That's Coke Light in my coffee cup.

 

I left Mrs. SFO to enjoy the ambiance  and headed down the concourse to check out the Admirals Club (or Admiral Club as they call it in SCL).

Wow, what a shocking difference. This thing is HUGE and attractive with numerous comfy looking seating areas.

And a business center. 

By the time I returned to the SkyClub, it didn't make sense to up and move to the Admirals Club for perhaps 15 minutes, so we toughed it out before heading towards the gate, which was actually more pleasant than sitting in the SkyClub. Our 767 from the nearby gate.
 

And naturally, gate lice and a boarding, starting with the usual non-AA "pax traveling with small children and those that need a little extra time".

Delta 146
Santiago SCL to Atlanta ATL
767-300ER
10:10P-5:55A +1 (sked)
10:10P-5:30A +1 (actual)
January 4, 2013
Seats 4BC

OK, what can I say? When one is used to First and only 6 to 10 other pax, this is going to take some getting used to. Unfortunately, this is not even close to the comfortable BE seating configuration and space on the upper deck of the 744. My only consolation is that I am burning off SkyPesos that would otherwise go unused.

Our home for the next 10 hours.

Nice Westin Heavenly duvet and pillow but where the hell am I supposed to put it to sit down?

Good leg room but this is one narrow seat. Despite the armrest, this is a very tight seat with absolutely zero storage.

At least there is power.

Water, almond snack and menus were placed at each seat prior to boarding.

And FAs came by offering champagne (Jacquart nonetheless) or mimosas, and unlike in AA First, in real glasses.

The Delta Tumi amenity kit. Meh.

IFE worked well.

I have had so many bad Michelle Bernstein meals on Delta domestic flights that I cringed when I opened the menu.

But I'll give DL credit for catering tonight. Good menu and the food was excellent.

Even the wine list is respectable and shows, that unlike on AA, inexpensive wines don't have to be swill.

Once in the air, an excellent crew of flight attendants began efficient and friendly service. A substantial hot towel about twice as large as BA/AA hot towels.

Cocktail and Stuffed Peppers with whipped cheese and grilled cauliflower.

The Stuffed Pepper was very good.

And the DL tray with soup and salad.

Caprese salad was good.

As was the Wild Mushroom Soup, poured directly from a Thermos into my bowl. Probably the best way to do it with a 32 pax J cabin where efficiency trumps elegance.

I decided to go with the chicken tonight as even DL's domestic chicken meals are pretty good. Tonight's was really good. Roasted Chicken Breast with mushroom tarragon jus, scalloped potatoes and sautéed spinach.

Mrs. SFO went with the lamb which she said was good.

Nice after dinner cheese and dessert options. Not just the usual lazy US airline ice cream sundae. The selection of sweets was really good.

After dinner and a movie, I turned the seat into a bed and tried as best I could to get a few hours sleep. Despite the nice pillow and duvet, this is a far cry from LH or even AA. Then again, it is only J and you get what you pay for. Very narrow seat means little ability to move. And the foot well is so small that you can't turn without removing feet/legs and reinserting. Mrs. SFO was not happy. At around T-90, FAs came around with breakfast. I passed as I was still full from dinner.

All in all, the flight was just OK, especially for the price. Service, food and wine were all excellent. But in the end, this is not First Class or anything close to First Class. IMO, the hard product is terrible and for that reason alone, I would never willingly fly it again on a such a long flight.

Mrs. SFO was not as charitable. And she comes up with such great lines that I write them down just to remember. She is still complaining about the flight. No idea how we got on the subject but at dinner last night she said and I quote "Don't you ever put me on that piece of s**t again". Of course, DL is in good company, as last month she warned me "Don't ever book me on British Airways again." Yep, that's my Princess.

Despite the thousands of deplaning international pax tonight, customs was a breeze as Global Entry worked great with lots of kiosks. On the other hand, our PRIORITY bags were on the carousel towards then end of the lot. A few minutes later we were on the train for the A concourse.

And a few minutes later, we were in a surprisingly crowded SkyClub complete with crying babies and cell phone yappers.

Delta 1618
Atlanta ATL to Denver DEN
767-300ER (originally scheduled equipment)
757-200 International (revised equipment)
757-300 Domestic (last minute sub)
8:08A-9:39A
January 5, 2013

It just keeps getting better and better. In 48 hours, we covered the entire spectrum... from a 767-300ER to a 757-200 International config (nice upgrade) to the lowest of the low, a no-power, no-IFE domestic 757-300.  Even gogo crapped out half way into the flight.  Of course our two seats together (4BC on the 767) flowed thru to cross aisle seats on the 757-200 and then to the 757-300. Surly Gate Attendant finally agreed to move us to 4CD.

Choice of cereal or "egg, cheese and bacon sandwich". The sandwich was actually pretty good, much better than the Jeff McMuffin on UA.

On time arrival in Denver, to slightly cooler temps than a few hours ago in Santiago.

We had a great time in Argentina. Thanks to everyone for following our trip.