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Round The World in First

Round The World in First
New York, Paris and Singapore
via Singapore Airlines First Class
September 2010

SQ319
LHR-SIN
6:30P-2:20P +1
September 20, 2010
777-300ER (77W)
First Class
Seats 2CD

A 5 minute walk and we were at spacious and very civilized Gate 1. Boarding had started, through two doors and jet bridges one on each side of the podium, First and Business on the left, Economy on the right, with GAs manning each. We were the only pax walking down the jetway "This is so much better than JFK." As soon as we crossed the threshold we were met by our Inflight Supervisor David who welcomed us and escorted to our seats. "Wow, these seats are huge. These are nice." from Mrs. SFO.

Both our Leading Stewardess and Leading Steward also stopped by to introduce themselves and welcome us on board... took my jacket, offered pre-departure beverage (a glass of Dom would be wonderful, thank you).

Our (very attractive Singapore Girl) Leading Stewardess Tan offered newspapers, magazines, amenity kits, PJs, headsets, and then spent some time with us explaining the service today. She knelt beside our seats most times she was going to be asking more than one question, first on Mrs. SFO's side and then on my side. Mrs. SFO was clearly impressed but sensing that I was starting to enjoy this just a little too much. "No I'm not going to wear a sarong and greet you and serve you like that" was her rather quick and disappointing response to my suggestion.

Shortly later, our IFS David presented us with our leather bound menus. Not Gordon Ramsey tonight but what a treat.... Matt Moran of Aria in Sydney. And a much more interesting wine list tonight than some of the swill on the short JFK-FRA. Specifically one of my favorite Burgundy producers, William Fevre and the 2007 Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons.

Are you a photographer? Mrs. SFO laughs, "no he just likes to fly and take pictures and write trip reports of wherever we go." Yes, I do.

Prior to take off, our SG Tan took our post departure drink, then our dinner selection. While I opted for the full treatment, determined to try to take a break from an orgy of food and drink in Paris, Mrs. SFO decided she really wasn't hungry and was going to go light.

Dinner from Aria and SQ at 38,000'

Ten minutes after our amazingly smooth roll and take off ("have we taken off yet?" from Mrs. SFO), our great crew of 3 First FAs were in full service mode for tonight's 6/8 cabin. What followed was 12 hours of the most flawless and amazing service one could ask for. This was one fabulous team, with perfectly pace service including the many small touches that set SQ apart from other airlines. Each time any of the three addressed us, they did so by name.

Gin & Tonic followed shortly thereafter by delicious Lamb and Chicken Satay with onion, cucumber and yummy spicy peanut sauce.

Showtime! And time to taste the William Fevre Premier Cru Chablis Vaillons...

Matt Moran's fabulous Anti Pasto, which included proscuitto with celeriac remoulade, piperade, grilled asparagus and extra virgin olive oil, and parmesan cracker. Sensational paired with the Chablis.

Matt's Tomato consomme with lobster, tarragon and petit vegetables was very good, with nice sized portion of lobster. And another glass of the Chablis.

Salad of baby spinach, arugula and green frissee garnished with sun dried tomato and olive, served with a lemon vinaigrette. And another glass (or two) of Chablis, merci.

Talk about a wow... Matt's Roasted Lamb rack with rosemary jus, ratatouille, pesto sauce and fondant potatoes. Simply sensational and perfectly medium rare. To accompany, I opted for the 2005 McLaren Vale Mr. Riggs The Gaffer Shiraz. I don't drink a lot of shiraz, but this was excellent and paired very well with the lamb.

Next up was a selection of cheeses which I declined. Brie, hereford hop, cashet blue and mull of kintyre served with quince paste, grapes, nuts and crackers.

Fresh fruit plate? Why not, the strawberries and plum were really good.

Dessert was the only disappointment tonight as the Honey bavarois with poached quince, saffron syrup and tuile was a little too bland for my liking.

Not quite as good as the tea in Marrakesh, but the Moroccan mint tea was a nice way to wind down the orgy, and the pralines were divine.

Shortly after dinner, I decided to join Mrs. SFO and watch a movie "in bed". We enjoy non-Hollywood movies (especially at The Embarcadero) so it was fun to sample some great movies I'd never heard about. I slept for only a couple of hours as i apparently failed to consume enough alcohol, or perhaps didn't like the warmish cabin temps. Decided to move over to 2F to read and work on trip photos and my TR. And naturally, every 10 minutes or so, one of our three First FAs would make the rounds and freshen my water.

After a couple of movies, couple of hours of sleep and some computer time, I took a final turn in one of our two attractive lavs.

Lav (almost) always cleaned and TP folded hotel style after each usage.

A foot opener for waste flap is a great idea...

A little more than 60 minutes out of SIN, the crew began breakfast service. We both started with a fruit plate and Mrs. SFO selected the traditional scrambled eggs with bacon, vine-ripened tomato, mushrooms and potato cake.

While I opted for the Nasi Lemak, Malay style coconut rice with spicy prawn sambal, egg omelet and fried chicken. It was excellent and perfectly medium spicy, but I just couldn't get into the little crunchy fishy fries.

We touched down at SIN about 10 minutes early and then exchanged warm personal thank you's and "hope to see you again" with our three outstanding FAs. What a fabulous experience today, from check-in to our final adieus.

Raffles Hotel
Singapore

OMG, I would absolutely agree. What was I thinking? And who are these people that rave about Raffles? The Palm Court Suite we originally booked and first checked into was outside of the main building necessitating leaving the A/C behind and facing the oppressive SIN heat and humidity. Depressing is the first word that comes to mind.

I told Mrs. SFO to sit tight while I went to chat with someone at the front desk about my Virtuoso "upgrade at check-in based on availability". At a few strokes on the keyboard, the clerk told me that unfortunately the next category was sold out, but... they would be able to offer a double upgrade to a Grand Hotel Suite. Two minutes later, I was shown a third floor main building suite of two bedrooms, two parlor rooms, four baths, a pantry kitchen and a 75' long veranda. I graciously accepted the upgrade on the spot before the front desk clerk had a chance to reclaim his sanity or speak with the Rooms Manager. As we were preparing to make the transfer, I did bump into said RM, who wondered if they might possibly close off the second BR and second parlor. Well OK, if you really want to go to the trouble. The Grand Hotel Suite from the hotel website...

They must have had good lighting that day, as in person as noted by Flyingfox, our suite was little dark and dated. Add in period furniture and artwork, and the hotel is a walk through history. But with the double upgrade, I think we can manage for two nights.

The one thing Raffles does have is amazing service from a wonderful staff, be it our butler, concierge, front doormen, laundry or restaurant. I think our favorite was venerable doorman Mr. Singh, who knowing the kitchen had closed last night, escorted us to the far end of the hotel to make sure that the staff in Raffles Courtyard took care of us. The food was exceptionally good, from the late night chicken satay to tonight's Wok Fried Prawns with Sweet Chili Sauce and Seafood fried rice. But in spite of all of the high notes, this is definitely a one off experience.

 

 

Marina Bay Sands Hotel, Sky Park and The Singapore Flyer

After a short power nap, we decided to explore Singapore after dark, clearly the best time considering the oppressive heat and humidity during the day. The view from our suite at Raffles.

First stop was the impressive Marina Bay Sands hotel...

S$20 plus S$1 for an audio guide (which is about all its worth) will get you to the 56th floor "Sky Park". Nice enough name but not much of a park. The view is spectacular, especially at night. But the rooftop bars and restaurants are strictly reserved for hotel guests, so this is basically an observation deck with limited access to a very small part of the rooftop.

The view of and from the infinity pool is quite incredible...

Next stop was the Singapore Flyer. And the words VIP Lounge and Priority Boarding sucked us in as we bought the Champagne Flight package, S$69 per person for a private car, flute of Moet and strawberries and chocolates.

Setting up for this week's F1 race...

A great first night in Singapore.

For someone from SFO that thinks 21 degree C day is a heat wave, Singapore is a shock to the system. Clearly nighttime is the time explore and enjoy the city. Daytime not so much. But we were determined to explore the food courts, especially Maxwell Food Centre in Chinatown. Crowded, hot, the place to be for great inexpensive meal.

We waited in line for the amazingly good Chicken Rice from Tian Tian, with soup and side of Bok Choy with Oyster Sauce.

Earlier in the day, we decided to do the HippoTours Hop On/Hop Off bus to get an overview of the city plus it went to Chinatown and near the Maxwell Food Centre. While waiting for the bus to arrive, we discover the fabulous Suntec Food Court.

A few city views including major construction. Adding to traffic woes this week was street closures for the F1 race.

SIN First Class Check-in and SilverKris First Class Private Room, Part 1

Our amazing Singapore Airlines saga continued with an experience that rivaled and in many respects surpassed the LH Frankfurt FCT. As we approached Changi T-3, the progression of signs direct customers to doors by class of service. After all the signs, there is an elegant turn off for "First Class".

Private entrance where a personal SQ assistant and two porters greet our arriving car.

We were warmly welcomed by numerous SQ employees into a gorgeous reception facility. No check-in counters here, but rather check-in desks and chairs more reminiscent of a 5* hotel, with a discrete baggage conveyor behind all of the check-in desks.

After being escorted to our personal check-in agent, we were offered cold towels as our agent processed our boarding passes, verifying frequent flyer accounts for the trip (AC for me, CO for Mrs.).

After more pleasant conversation and some photo ops, we were given our boarding passes, Private Room invitation and baggage claim receipts.

Best wishes all around and our personal assistant escorted us from the check-in/reception lounge to passport control, into the beautiful Changi T-3 terminal and upstairs to the SKL.

 

Our personal assistant introduced us to the SKL agents and we bid our adieus. One of SKL agents then escorted us into the lounge giving a brief tour as we passed through each area, Business Class, First Class and finally The Private Room. The further we walked, the higher the class and more elegant the setting, furniture and decor. The Private Room is the most luxurious and decadent airport lounge I have ever had the pleasure to experience, no doubt with the highest employee to passenger ratio. An oft-times jaded Mrs. SFO was thoroughly impressed and moved to utter "wow", "amazing", "beautiful" and "this is even better than Lufthansa". It is especially fabulous when we arrive 3 hours before departure and have the entire Private Room to ourselves, allowing me to take as many photos as I wanted. Enjoy the tour.


 

The Private Room features a large and elegant dining room...

Dining options include fabulous menu of great made to order selections...

Or an impressive array of serve yourself options...

The rest of the SilverKris Lounge

After we settled in, I went exploring the "lesser" parts of the SKL. As you enter the SKL, an obvious demarkation between classes.

The First Class side of the SKL winds right, left then right again and starts with the regular First Class lounge, apparently used by *A First pax and those SQ pax not invited to The Private Room.

A peek into the Business Side. OK, that's enough, get me out of here. 

SQ2
SIN-HKG-SFO
5:50P-8:30P
September 23, 2010
777-300ER (77W)
First Class
Seats 2CD

After 10 fabulous days from New York to Paris to Singapore, the prospect of another city (even if it is Hong Kong), airport transfer and hotel was not quite as attractive as it seemed when we planned our trip 6 months earlier. When neither of us could sleep at 3AM Thursday and Mrs. SFO hinted that she'd rather be home, we decided that we would pass on Hong Kong this time (especially since we'll be there in four months) and just go all the way back to SFO today. According to EF, both SQ2 (SIN-HKG-SFO) and SQ16 (SIN-ICN-SFO) showed at least A2 all the way thru SFO. Fortunately, it was still noon in SFO and I was able to speak to my SQ sales rep, who changed our reservation and reissued our ticket. Strangely though, her SFO SQ system first showed no availability. Then a half hour later, she texted me confirming that she now was able to confirm availability of either SQ2 or SQ16. Perhaps SIN pulls inventory from the field on the flight day??

SQ2
SIN-HKG
5:50P-9:35P

After 2+ hours in The Private Room, we made our way downstairs thru security and Gate A2.

As boarding was already well under way, there was no line in the First/Business lane to the left of podium. Another warm welcome and we were in our seats. Another 77W so I'll dispense with a repeat of the cabin pics. This leg of our trip was a regional flight and I got the sense that it was a regional crew that was perhaps not experienced or as refined in the fine art of SQ transcontinental long-haul. It just little things like no offer of blankets (I had to ask), and not quite the frequent and efficient topping of drinks. My first G&T came with a small pour, the second pre-mixed (with too much tonic) from the galley. And during meal selection, I heard something I never though i would hear on SQ... "I'm sorry we've run out of the lobster". The signature chef on the SIN-HKG leg was Singapore's own Sam Leong. Even though I ordered Sam's selections, I had to ask for chop sticks, twice. "Oh, I'm sorry, I thought you meant with the duck."

Tonight's SIN-HKG menu...
Sam's Choice
Dinner
Desserts and Cheese

And the wine list for both SIN-HKG and HKG-SFO...
Champagne and Whites
Reds and Port

Once again, other than the Dom and Krug, the wine list was underwhelming and I stayed with the Krug tonight. But again with the Buena Vista Chardonnay and Mondavi Cab. Does SQ really think these are First Class wines??

G&T with Cashews and today's Chronicle.

Sam's Assorted Asian appetizer was excellent.

The Double Boiled Chicken broth with bamboo piths and crab claw was sensational.

But the oriental roast duck and Chinese seasonal greens, mushrooms and steamed rice was tasteless and borderline inedible. I didn't realize until later that a BTC option x-SIN was Singapore Chicken Rice, which, OMG, I would have ordered in a heartbeat. Mrs. SFO's lobster was a little better but nowhere near the wow category. But considering there was another meal in 4 hours, it was probably just as well that I didn't pig out.

Another on time arrival. Unfortunately, we arrived at Gate A19 and thru pax had to deplane, walk a quarter mile just to get thru the jetway and reclear security.
 

The SilverKris Lounge - HKG

A stop in HKG means deplaning with all your carry-ons and personal effects, a long walk, re-clearing security, then re-boarding. Once back upstairs, we headed for the SKL, which appears to have relocated in the past two years. The new lounge is considerably larger than the old one and much more attractive.

New business/computer centre...

With numerous spacious, attractive and comfortable seating areas, ample lighting and with tables between every seat...

The lounge features much more substantial food and dining options than before...

But where's the First Class Lounge? The only recognition is a separate seating area at the rear and left of the lounge, with a small sign noting reserved for Suites, First and PPS. Seating and lighting are the same as the rest of the lounge. No separate food or bar. A little surprising since SQ flies the A380 to HKG. No a big deal tonight but I might be a little more critical if I were originating in HKG. Then again, I'd probably be in the VS Clubhouse, long trek and all.

Next up: HKG-SFO and the final leg of a great trip.

SQ2
HKG-SFO
10:45P-8:30P (same day)
September 23, 2010
777-300ER (77W)
First Class
Seats 2CD
 
We left the SKL just before 10:15p and the general lounge boarding call. Gate A19 tonight meant a healthy trek back from whence we came.
Priority boarding lane was wide open, but there was a back up in the jetway for another carry-on security check. It wasn't very thorough and I'm not sure what the intent was. Anyway, back on board and we were warmly greeted by a fabulous new crew. There was only one other couple in First tonight, and since they were in front of us in 1CD and amazingly quiet, it felt like we had the entire First cabin to ourselves tonight.

Tonight, our HKG-SFO flight again featured Aria's Matt Moran:
Matt's Suggestions
Supper
Desserts and Cheeses
Champagnes and Whites
Reds and Ports
Light Bites
Breakfast

After his fabulous LHR-SIN offerings, I decided to go with mostly Matt again tonight.
To start, the Tapas platter: Grilled octopus with cucumber salad, grilled chorizo sausage with avocado salsa, grilled polenta, beff pastrami and potato salad.

Ever since I had the most amazing griiled octopus at Milos in Montreal, I keep trying to find something that even comes close. Struck out in Istanbul a couple months ago, and not so good tonight either. Everything else was quite good, especially when washed down with Krug, and more Krug.

The White Onion and thyme soup with Iberico ham was positively sensational, and rivaled the Georges Blanc soup I had a couple of years ago. And more Krug.

Not in the mood for seabream tonight, I went to the menu for oven-baked chicken with barahat spices, roasted red pepper, asparagus and crushed green soya bean. Very good, especially with more Krug. Indeed, I consumed so much Krug that I completely forgot the wine list and the one wine that I had wanted to try, the 2004 Jadot Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru.

For dessert, Matt's Moscato jelly, mango and lychee salad with creme fraiche was simply incredible, even better with another couple glasses of Krug.

A few cabin shots before the lights go out...

I slept for only a couple of hours and then moved to 2A so as not to disturb Mrs. SFO, who slept for nearly seven hours from right after take-off from HKG. One of our three great FAs walked by every 10 minutes or so to top off my water, or see if I needed anything.

About 90 minutes before landing, lights came on and our great crew began breakfast service. Starting with fresh squeezed orange juice and a fruit plate....

And delicious scrambled eggs with sausage, smoked ham, tomato and potatoes...

After a great 10 day birthday adventure, we were home, descending into a beautiful cloudless Bay Area sunset touching down on 28R almost an hour early. What an absolute delight to fly SQ again. Thanks to everyone at Singapore for another memorable experience.