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Shanghai Day 1

After a clear late afternoon yesterday, it was cloudy and rainy for most the rest of our visit to Shanghai.  Shanghai is so very different from Beijing.  With a population of some 25 million and growing, it is larger than Beijing and more densely populated.  With an early British but in particular French presence, Shanghai has a much more western feel.  Indeed, with tree lined streets, shops and outdoor cafes, it almost seems like you are in Paris at times.  

Our first morning was perhaps the most fascinating of our trip.   We spent the morning with an American expat consultant/historian who has lived in Shanghai for nearly 20 years.  A member of the Shanghai Historical Society and recognized as one of the experts on the history of Shanghai and its buildings, it was fascinating to learn how Shanghai was settled and evolved into China's trading hub.  First the British, then French, then Americans were granted the right to live and work in what amounted to their own protectorates with the city.  The French Concession is the most lasting vestige of that time.  Next to our hotel, the former British consulate, until recently a Communist Party reception centre.

Then back to the Bund, Shanghai's beautiful water front avenue.

When completed, this building will be the tallest in world after Dubai's Burj Khalifa.

No not Mao, but rather Chen Yi, the city's first Mayor after WW II.

Inside the former headquarters of HSBC, now a Government bank.   Fortunately, the ceiling and panels were preserved during the revolution when a bank official convinced party militants that it would be easier to plaster over the decadent mosiacs rather than having to replace a destoyed ceiling.

I only got 2 pics before security stopped me.  Not sure what the issue was as there were no customers to be seen anywhere in the cavernous old facility.

Next a walk thru the lobby of the new Waldorf.

And a stop at one of the few remaining old homes still open to the public, as a museum. 

Next up was a walk down narrow street to the "lane homes".  Narrow allies where multiple families still live in small rooms with primitive conditions and no plumbing.  Block by block, these residents are being evicted and moved to "apartments" in the suburbs, so they new luxury apartments can be constructed.  Save for a few lanes preserved as history or converted to trendy shopping, restaurante and bars, most of these will be gone in a couple of years. 

And will replaced by these...

We bid adieu to Patrick and met our guide Priscilla for lunch at Ye Shanghai.

Then a walk thru preserved and gentrified lane homes, now shops, bars and restos.

The line is to view the building where the Communist Party was founded.

And more exploring the gentrified lanes of Shanghai.

After a rest at the hotel, we headed out for dinner at highly recommended M on the Bund.  This was apparently the first fine dining restaurant on The Bund.  Its success started a procession of new restaurants including numerous celebrity chefs from around the world.

Back at the Peninsula, we decided to head to the bar for a nightcap and dessert.  OK, there is something seriously wrong with the hotel when we were the only patrons in the bar at 9PM.

Desserts were good, but where are all the people??

And back to the room, where one never gets tired of this view.