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Our week in Israel

Our week in Israel
via Lufthansa First Class
January 2018

Our home for the next two nights was the unique Scots Hotel in Tiberias.   The hotel started as a medical centre in the 1880s by a young Scottish doctor, who believed in his mission to heal the people of the Holy Land.   The hospital continued operating as a maternity hospital untill 1959, and was later converted into a guest house, and in 1999, the Church Of Scotland decided to open a full fledged unique hotel.  Certainly looks like it could be in Scotland.

The 2nd floor of the The Doctor's House building. 

And our funky suite 606.

The shared terrace for the four guest rooms on the 2nd floor of The Doctor's House. 

And the views from the terrace.

Some more pics from the next day stroll around the property.

And 

And the lovely view of the Sea of Galliee with the Golan Heights on the opposite shore.

Breakfast each morning was in The Torrance Restaurant which features an elaborate and excellent breakfast buffet.

 

Today we explore the Sea of Galilee.  Looking east across the sea on a sand storm hazy morning.

A few minutes later around the sea on the Golan Heights side.

Our first stop is a private boat (aka dingy) cruise on the sea.

With all of 6 horse power.  LOL.

But the views were very nice.

Looking back at Tiberias on the western shore of the sea.

Our next stop was Capernaum, where Peter lived. After Jesus left Nazareth, he moved to Capernaum and lived there for the last three years of his life. Capernaum was a fishing village on the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee. It had a population of about 1,500 during the Roman/Byzantine times. Archaeological excavations uncovered the large village, two ancient synagogues built one over the other and a Judeo-Christian church marking the home where Jesus lived. 

 

Mt. of Beatitudes was the place where Jesus delivered his Sermon on the Mount. 

The church was built on 1927.

Tabgha is a modern church which sits on the remains of Byzantine and Crusader churches on the shore of the Sea of Galilee. It is believed to be where Jesus fed the multitudes with bread and fish (Miracle of the Multiplication of the Fishes and the Loaves. 

And then a quick stop at a kibbutz which houses the remains of a 2,000 year old boat.  Interesting to see and hear the story of how if was found and restored.

Magdala is another archaeological sites.  During the construction of a Christian Visitors’ Center a few years ago, archaeologists discovered a 1st century CE synagogue in the ancient village of Magdala, where Mary Magdalene was from. 

 

We completed our circle tour of the sea around 1:30pm and headed for lunch and the group's hands down concensus favorite part of the trip.   A private chef lunch on overlooking the Sea of Galilee.

We drove to a spectacular secluded location overlooking Tiberias and The Sea of Galilee where we found Chef Tal Zohar and his mobile kitchen waiting for us.   Chef Tal studied at FCI in New York and worked at numerous restaurants around the world including in Santa Monica and New York.  Back in his native Israel, he owns a small restaurant but specializes in catered private outdoor events.  Chef Tal has an infectious personality and his "events" are a wonderful combination of food, fun and humor.

Chef Tal's amazing mobile kitchen.

And the first of a dozen courses that were simply out of this world.  Enjoy the pics.  The food tasted even better.

 

 

And dessert.

Towards the end of our culinary orgy, Chef Tal launches his drone for some aerial pics and a video of our lunch location.

What an incredible experience.  Between the food, setting and Chef Tal's warmth and humor, this ranks up there as one of our most memorable meals ever. 

This morning, we left the Scots Hotel and Tiberias and headed for the Golan Heights which became a part of Israel after the Six Day War in 1967.  

Out first stop was Mt. Bental, a dormant volcano which overlooks the Syrian border and is an excellent setting for the study of the Six Day War (1967) and Yom Kippur War (1973) and the current situation in war-torn Syria.  We received an in-depth, geo-political analysis and the latest updates from the Syrian Civil War and the political situation in the Middle East from a Lieutenant Colonel of the IDF reserves.  She served for 15 years in the Israeli Defense Forces, specializing in Military Intelligence and routinely lectures to US Senators, congressmen/women and politicians, foreign military commanders, senior journalists and visiting VIP groups. 

Part of the U.N. Observer force doing what they do here, observing.  Not sure what they are observing and/or why, but what do I know?

Looking into Syria.

With a former Syrian Golan Heights military HQ and the security fence Israel built on the Syrian border. 

Next stop was Kibbutz El Rom, the highest kibbutz in the world where we watched a short film about the epic tank battle of Emeq Ha-Bacha (the Valley of Tears) during the 1973 Yom Kippur War.

After that we set out with our retired IDF guide to get to know the Golan Heights through an off-road jeep excursion through the beautiful and rugged volcanic terrain of the Golan Heights. We visited ancient Jewish villages from the Talmudic period, destroyed and abandoned Syrian army bases from the Six Day War, and battlefields from the Yom Kippur War. 

And then the Oz 77 Memorial.

Approaching the Syrian border passing a former Syrian military HQ. 

Approaching the border.

I think we'll stop here.

Stopping to say hello to the Indian Observer force.

And the Fijian compound.

IDF training session.

For lunch, we stopped at nearby Assaf winery.

And enjoyed wine and a nice lunch.

After lunch, we headed out for 3 hour drive to Jerusalem through the Jordan Valley, along the Israel/Jordan border.  

Thirty minutes to go.  We'll visit the Dead Sea later in the week.

Our home for the next 4 nights was the historic King David Hotel in Jerusalem.   Nice enough location, but this place is in need of a major makeover. 

 

I used Citi Concierge and the 4th night free program to book our room.  Occupany was light and we were upgraded from a Deluxe Room Old City View to a spacious Junior Suite, although on the limited view 2nd floor.

 Comfortable with pretty dated "heavy" decor.

And a bathroom that hadn't been renovated in 40 years.

The next morning, the view from our balcony.

Breakfast in the main restaurant. 

And an elaborate buffet spread.

The hotel's walk of fame spans the entire length of the main corridor.

Jerusalem Day 1

Another gorgeous morning as we head out for our first day of touring of Jerusalem and surroundings.

This morning we drove into the Israeli West Bank and by some of the Palestinian areas.  Many of these have separation barriers, part fence, part wall, built by Israel starting in the year 2000 as a response to the Second Intifada. 

With controlled access for some Palestinians into Jerusalem.   

Nearby are Israeli West Bank settlements.  We visited one gated settlement. 

And the surrounding fences.

Beyond the fence.

With pronounced military presence in the West Bank.

More contrasts.  Jewish areas in the foreground, Palestinian on the other side of the wall.

Meanwhile, back in Jerusalem, whoa that truck has seen better days.

Looking out over the Old City.

Driving to the Old City, past the Damascus Gate.

Next stop is the Church all Nations and the home of the Garden of Gethsemane, at the foot of the Mt. of Olives, where according to Christian tradition, Jesus went after the Last Supper and was arrested by Roman soldiers. Today, the Garden of Gethsemane is a tranquil, solemn grove of beautiful, ancient olive trees. 

And into the Old City.

The Armenian Quarter.

The Jewish Quarter.

To the Arab Suqs.

His fellow shopmates got a good laugh when I took this pic.

Ain't that the truth.

For lunch, we stopped for Shawarma in the Arab Suq area.

The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is the holiest site in Christendom and is controlled by six Christian churches: the Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, Armenian, Coptic, Syriac and the Ethiopian churches. 

 

After a long and exhausting day, we headed back to the hotel to rest up before dinner, at nearby Satya.

Jerusalem Day 2

Another beautiful morning and the view from our King David suite...

We're back to the Old City this morning... 

... with our first stop the Temple Mount.

Meanwhile back in the narrow streets of the Old CIty...

Pilgramage from Ethiopia.

Yeah, that's not going to work.  The two cars just sat there with no one giving an inch.  LOL.

Next stop the Western Wall, is a small section of the western retaining wall of the Temple Mount, which in ancient times housed the First and Second Temples of the Jewish people. For almost 2,000 years, this wallwas the closest Jews could get to the place where the Holy of Holies stood, and Jews have been praying there ever since.

Lots of Bar Mitzvahs here today...

For lunch, we headed for the old train station and beautiful Station Hall, which is now a magnet of shops and restaurants.

After lunch, a brief stop at The Israel Museum.

Dinner tonight was at Rooftop at the Mamilla Hotel.   Great food and excellent service.

 

Today we're off to Bethlehem.  But first, this morning we head for Ein Kerem, the birthplace of John the Baptist and the site of Mary's visitation.

As such, Ein Kerem became a major Christian pilgrimage site

St. John Ba'Harim and The Visitation, rebuilt in the 12th century by the Crusaders.

Then a stop at Notre Dame de Zion.

The back to the old train station for lunch...

... at trendy Adom Restaurant and Wine Bar.

More amazing Israeli wines.

Aftter lunch and a 20 minute drive, we arrived at Bethlehem, or rather the back door to Palestinian-controlled Bethlehem where we were handed off to our Palestinian guide Isa and driver Nicolas, for the short drive into the center of the city to Manger Square.

In Manger Square, a major nativity display.

And the Church of the Nativity, a major Christian holy site, as it marks the traditional place of Jesus's birth.

Waiting to descend the stairs to a place where Mary gave birth to Jesus,

 

 

 

Bidding adieu to our wonderful guide Isa.

Later then evening, our final dinner in Jerusalem at Chakra, another trendy resto.

On our final day in Israel, we head out of Jerusalem to the Dead Sea and Masada.

Holy Land Harley Club.  Awesome!

Spectacular scenery along the western shore of the Dead Sea on our drive to Masada.

And into the restricted access area.

Masada is the site of Herod's spectacular hilltop fortress.  From our tour notes... The remains of the fortress of Masada are well-preserved and in many cases, have been reconstructed. The most impressive structure on Masada is King Herod’s northern palace, built on three rock terraces overlooking the gorge below. There are many other places of interest, such as the luxurious western palace, several Jewish ritual baths, storerooms, cisterns, watchtowers, and a synagogue built into the casemate wall. But the story of Masada is the story of the Jewish rebels who escaped war torn Jerusalem and found refuge on the mountain. From the hilltop one can see the Roman army bases and imagine how Flavius Silva, the Roman general, organized and planned the siege that would eventually bring the defenders to their final stand. At the breeching point, we see the Roman ramp upon which the Romans soldiers climbed into the fortress on that last day of fighting in the winter of 73 CE...

Queuing for the cable car to take us to the top.

Amazing venue not to be missed.

With spectacular scenery.

The beatiful Dead Sea coast line.   

On our way back to Jerusalem, we stopped at Qumran, a small ancient village along the shores of the Dead Sea, where the Essenes, a monastic Jewish sect from the 1st century BCE and CE found refuge from infighting in Jerusalem. They wrote the Dead Sea Scrolls, and hid them in the caves around their village. Some Christians raise the possibility that John the Baptist may have been associated with the Essenes at Qumran and may have visited or lived there periodically 

 

We got back to The King David just after 1pm, so Mrs. SFO777 and I had roughly 3 hours before our driver was to pick us up for ride to the airport.   Since it was Shabbat and the hotel restaurants really weren't functioning, we went across the street... believe it or not... to the YMCA.  Our guide recommended it.  Indeed, this was like no YMCA I've ever seen.   

While not gourmet, lunch was pretty good.

With a late checkout, we left The King David around 4:30pm for the 35 minutes drive to Ben Gurion TLV airport. TLV is one tough place to get to and from in comfort. We had originally booked Korean First on the 10pm TLV-ICN 77W but my waitlist for that 2nd award seat on the connecting ICN-LAX A380 never cleared. Then a few months ago, we decided to go to Santorini in May for our anniversary. So I bought a cheap ATH-LAX-JTR round trip and used the last of my 2017 SWUs to upgrade to AA First on the LHR-LAX-LHR AA legs. Alas, we needed to get to Athens and El Al had a reasonably priced 7:30pm nonstop. The money we saved on an extra night at The King David paid for our El Al flights, the ATH hotel and then some. I'd never flown El Al and hadn't heard a lot of good things. But today's positive experience changed that perspective.

Since it was Shabbat, TLV was deserted and our two lovely VIP "escorts" escorted us to security where we were the only passengers and then thru the spacious and attractive concourse.

... to El Al's King David Lounge.   

To the right of the front desk is the First Class Lounge.   

... where I took a quick peek and pic.  Get a competitive long haul First Class hard product and I'd definintely fly you.

OK, this is nice.  Very attractive and spacious lounge.  It certainly helps when you are the only passengers for most of our stay. 

\

 

OMG... yum, yum!

There is a spacious mezzanine level to the lounge, dubbed the Glenvit Lounge.

At around T-35, we headed out for the short walk to Gate D7.

Tel Aviv TLV to Athens ATH
El Al LY 543
B738
7:25p-9:45p (sked)
7:20p-9:10p (actual)
January 13, 2018
Departed 3/16
Seats 2AC

With a very light load, our Gate Agent invited everyone to board. 

Not the newest cabin, but way, way better than Euro-fraud Business that most EU airlines fly to TLV.

Excellent and attentive service throughout the flight, which isn't hard when there are only 3 of us in the cabin.  LOL.  PDB open bar although we just went with water.

Whoa, an amenity kit on a 2 hour flight.  

After take-off...

And showtime, El Al regional Business Class style.

We were both full but I took one for the team and the photo op.    The meal was nothing fancy... jjust a cold meal although the chicken was quite tasty.

Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by El Al.   I had low expectations going in so the bar was low.  But I would definitely fly them again and absolutely choose El Al over the crap Euro-fraud on the likes of LH, LX, AF, etc...